Matt Hanson’s Brain Archive
It’s been nearly 7 months since my basement was ruined by flooding. I ripped out the wall paneling and furring strips that made up the walls, tore up the vinyl flooring tiles and took out the ceiling panels. I learned the basics of a Home Designer program relatively quickly in order to play around with layouts and embarked upon a journey that has proven to be much more complex and time consuming then I had ever thought…I wanted to know what the proper way was to construct a finished basement.
If one wants to know proper construction techniques you need to go beyond the knowledge of not only most “Do-It-Yourselfers”, but also many contractors as well. It’s a relatively easy field to get into it and not surprisingly many do not know or seem to care about the science and technology of construction. Many stick to the common and well-known techniques that have been around for decades and are accepted as common-place. These are the recommendations you will get from walking into a Home Depot and asking one of the workers. What many people do not appreciate however is that there is actually a on-going research and development to improve existing construction methods. This is called Building Science and is studied at many Colleges across the country. One of the most useful websites for information regarding the latest recommendations can be found at none other then buildingscience.com.
To illustrate some of the difficulties and confusion in construction here’s my story of what I thought was a simple question - “How should an interior basement wall be constructed?”. Ask 4 ‘experts’ and you may very well get 4 different answers. Such was my experience and I decided I really needed to get to the bottom of this. While science sometimes does not provide conclusive answers, there often is a ‘right’, or at least a ‘best’, answer - it’s just typically mis-understood, mis-applied, or purposely obfuscated.
Basements require careful consideration as they tend to trap moisture laden air. In the summer time the moisture condenses on the colder concrete surfaces. Vapor barriers trap this moisture and can promote mold growth. Even if the vapor barrier is completely air sealed, moisture can wick up though the concrete and get trapped behind the vapor barrier. Fiberglass batt insulation, especially those with the kraft paper facing, can suck up and trap moisture and provide paper-food for mold. The proper way to construct basement walls therefore is by covering the concrete with extruded rigid foam insulation (XPS) who’s purpose is several-fold.
By reducing the possibility of condensation, and allowing the walls to dry if they get wet (the XPS is permeable), unfaced fiberglass batts can often be used as cavity insulation (between the studs) without as much worry. The use of a dehumidifier in combination with ventilation is also a good idea. One can also use paper-free wallboard if mold-growth is still a consideration (if the dehumidifier properly controls humidity then regular wallboard can be used with worry). All these recommendations can be found at buildingscience.com, textbooks on Building Science, numerous technical articles.
In the last 7 months I’ve had 5 general contractors come to my house to discuss the basement, not to mention water-proofers, concrete cutters, electricians, and plumbers. Here’s what each GC had to say about basement wall construction:
I had pretty much decided to go with GC #3 at this point by as time went on it had become apparent it wasn’t going to happen. During this time, sparked by my conversations with GC#3, was when I really started researching building science and educated myself. Eventually, I started the process again, bringing in another two contractors.
In the last month I’ve brought in GC#4 to do other, related work: new basement windows, some rotting wood and sill in the front of the house, and installation of a active radon mitigation system. I’ve been testing radon myself with an electronic radon sensor over the last several months and found this house had extremely high radon levels (16+ pCi/liter vs the max EPA recommended of 4 pCi/liter). With the radon system the levels have dropped to 1.7 pCi/liter…I just have to live with the pipe going up through closets in my house and a suction fan in the attic.
Someday, hopefully soon, we’ll actually get the basement project underway. I think I still have some more research and planning to do but overall the time spent has been worth it. Contractors are often viewed somewhere between used car salesman and lawyers and it’s definitely worth spending time to find one that you can trust. It’s important to do your homework and ask questions about the things that are important to you.
Matt,
I’m having an experience just like yours. We bought our home a few years ago, and I’ve been busy doing lots of projects. The next biggie is finishing the basement. I want to do it right, and have studied everything on the (excellent) Building Science Corp site. The contractors I’ve had out seem entirely ignorant of the vapor migration issues, and simply do whatever common practice is (including approaches that are SURE to result in trapped moisture). I don’t know if you’ve finished your basement job yet, but (FWIW), here’s what I’m going to do:
1) Against the block wall: Vapor barrier/radon barrier. I know BSC doesn’t recommend a vapor barrier anywhere i the basement wal assembly, but I realy couldn’t think of a good reason NOT to have one against the damp concrete blocks. It’s just a source of a lot of water vapor nto my home, and don’t think the water vapor traped behind the plastic will be a problem–what will the mold eat back there? Anyway, BSC doesn’t seem to have any problem with placing an impermeable layer over a basement cement floor slab (recognizing that the area behind it will be at 100% humidity a te tme), so i can’t see why a wal would be any different. Like you, we have a rason problem. We have a radon level of approx 6 pC/L, so I’m a ittle worried about it, and I’d like to take this opportunity to reduce the infiltration of the stuff. I’m looking for an appropriate barrier film (regular ‘ol polyethelene film apparently is fairly permeable to radon according to my research. If you want to know more about possible candidate barriers, see the patent at “http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/6676780/description.html”. Right now, I think I’l probaly go with some sort of plastic film with an aluminum coating–maybe something sold as a radiant barrier will work, more research to follow)
2) 2″ XPS sheets. It took me awhile to find a source of ths stuff with the boron included to discourage termites and combustion)
3) Wood 1×3’s 16″ OC as attachment points for the drywall.
4) Drywall (”DenseArmor”–the stuff without any paper to feed the mold)
5) Regular latex interior paint.
For the floor, I’ll probably go with a product called “Platon” which is a very thick, semi-rigid plastic sheet with tall dimples. I’ll roll that out, seal it well with the recommended caulk (probably add some aluminum tape for extra protection), then add a floor. BSC doesn’t recomend any non-breathable flooring in a basement, but that doesn’t leabe many options if a homeowner doesn’t want carpet in the basement. The Platon manufacturers suggest putting landscape fabric down on the concrete, then putting down the Platon, then putting a thin payer of underlayment foam used for laminate flooring, then putting laminate flooring atop that. This would be a relatively low-cost approach, and it would be easy. Option 2 would be to put OSB atop the Platon and then put cork on top of that. Pricey, but would probably look good. Option 3 is to just sandblast/grind my floor to get all the mastic off it (left from the tiles I pulled up) and paint the concrete floor with epoxy paint (radon-proof? Don’t know)–put some rugs down for comfort.
Anyway, those are my thoughts. BTW, I ran into the same problem wth unknowledgeable tradesmen when i needed to replace my furnace. Everyone just wanted to replace it with one the same size as the one that was being removed, despite the fact that I had significantly improved the home’s windows and insulation. No one would run the heat load calcs. I did the calculatiom mu=yself in about an hor using an online calculator, bought a unit 1/2 the size of the one they wanted to sell me, installed it myself, and have had NO trouble despute some very cold days last winter. As a bonus, the smaller fan in the new one does a better job of assuring the moisture is removed from the air when I run the AC.
Best of luck with your projects. Feel free to contact me.
Mark
Matt - You probably noticed the work on our house when we met Vince for Osterville - The basement is one component - We had intermittent flooding 3-4 times/yr - damp to 1″ here an there - Lots of theories - water down the chimneys - repointed those; ground-water - eliminated; finally found sneak paths through 140 year old field stone walls - and I poured some concrete 4′ walls on the inside of the basement wall - Anyway, having left that problem unsolved, I decided to put in a gutter collection system (conductors running into buried 3″ pvc that lead to a big tank - not yet built - during rainstorms - as the one we are now having - LOTS of water poured out of this collector - now 30′ away from the foundations - as a side effect this system seems to have eliminated water in the basement - only a year of testing to date - but things are looking up on the basement front - Eventually I plan to actually put in big tanks and do all grounds watering with that water - Given the rainfall here and our roof area I have the potential of collecting 25,000+ gals. - that would be a help - James